Now that you've had your break, let's get back to work!
On the right side, label and remove the hose I have labeled as "23". This is the hose going to the air pre-filter you ran over here looking for earlier.

Also label and remove the one on the right that I don't have labeled. I just remember where that one goes. Oops, looks like the rubber boot on my choke cable has slid up a bit. Make sure you push these back down to seal the connection to keep water out.

Back to the left side again. Above the rear cylinder, label and remove from the "T" the hose right under the pliers. Again, one I don't have labeled. When you put the carbs back in the hose goes right over there and it easy to see where it goes. Another one I just remember.

Since the hose on the other side of the "T" doesn't have a clamp, make sure it's pushed on tight, not loose like this after you pull the other hose.

This hose is a tricky one. From the right side of the bike, this is the fuel line that feeds to both carbs. The fuel line comes in the top, then continues down from the "T" to the left  carb as it is wrapped under and between the carbs and around the front to the other carb. It's the one with the spring sheath. The part of the "T" going to the right feeds the right side carb with fuel. I pull the top fuel line loose here, and keep the "T" and the carb hoses connected together.

This small hose runs from the front center of the carbs, under and between the carbs and up to this valve above the rear cylinder. It's a pain. Pull it loose from the valve. I don't label because I remember it. Because it is a pain.

When reinstalling the carbs, position this hose up between the two carbs as you insert the carbs back in. This makes it easier to plug back in.

That's it for hoses. Now you can loosen the band clamps on the boots that connect the carbs to the cylinder intake ports. Here is the left side, then the right. These are the clamps that hold the carbs to the boots.

Lift the carbs off the boots, then unscrew the bottom clamp on the right side boot and remove it from the cylinder intake, as one of the fuel lines on the front of the carb will not clear the boot if it is in place.

Now that the right boot is removed, you can begin the process of removing the carbs.

Carefully weave the carbs out of the maze of hoses until they are in your hands instead of the bike. Carefully throw them to the ground as shown here. Well, carefully PLACE them on a cushioned surface where you will begin rejetting. Oh, you didn't drain the carb float bowls when you started, did you? In that case, keep them upright in your hands in the same position as they were when in the bike. Walk to a conveniently safe area and turn them over and around a few times and the fuel in the float bowls will pour out of a few of the nipples and hoses. When you are done "draining the float bowls", you can return to your work area.

Here is what your beast's chest looks like after you have ripped it's heart out and carelessly thrown it to the floor.

Since you've worked so hard running around your bike, reading instructions, pouring gasoline all over the floor and yourself, I feel you deserve another break. You were hoping I would say that, weren't you you animal?!?

Ladies, you know what to do.