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Last night I finally got around to changing out my clutch springs. I have noticed over the past several months that my clutch was slipping between first/second gears under hard acceleration and that in general the clutch is “weak” on take-off. The problem was especially noticeable after the change to a 38-tooth sprocket and riding two-up. So following the advice from another forum member MattyMatty, I finally decided I needed to get heavier clutch springs. A big thanks to MattyMatty for posting the original solution it made my job much easier.
Total time:
· Approximately 1 – 2 hours depending on your exhaust pipes
Total cost of the job:
· Approximately $ 38
Tools:
1. 8mm – 17 mm sockets open end wrench, 3/8 ratchet with 6+ inch extension
Supplies:
1. 4 quarts 10-40w Honda Oil
2. Oil filter (optional – depending how long it’s been since your last oil change)
3. Right side crankcase gasket (optional cost $13 you shouldn’t have to replace it unless you tear it when you remove the case)
4. 2 crush gaskets for the exhaust ($8.50 pair)
5. Barnett M-5-4 Springs – comes with 5 springs you will only need 4 ($ 15)
From The Toolman
Parts and #'s needed to fix weak clutch
1-Barnett spring kit # MT-5-4 ($15 or less) Kit has 5-you only need 4
1-Honda right side case gasket # 11394-MV1-850 (about $20 I think)
2-Honda exhaust crush gaskets # 18291-MM5-860 (about $7 or 8 a peice)
Steps:
1. Drain the oil – 17mm drain plug
Time: 5 minutes
2. Remove the right side cover, it will make it easier to get access to the back exhaust pipe acorn nuts
Time: 10 seconds
3. Remove the exhaust – 12mm Acorn nuts, I believe 14mm for the rear exhaust brackets
Time: 10 minutes
4. Remove the 2 bottom bolts for the right foot peg to the frame, I believe 12mm. We’re not going to remove the peg/brake assembly, removing the bolts gives you the ability to move it around to get to the bottom three bolts on the crankcase.
Time: 2 minutes
***Beer Break***
5. Loosen the tension spring on the rear brake which is on the bottom left looking at the right-side crankcase.
Time: 1 minute
6. Loosen the right side (looking at the crankcase) locking nut on the clutch cable on the top the crankcase, once it’s loose you can slide off the cable from the clutch lever.
Time: 2 minutes
7. Remove the 8mm bolts on the crankcase; there are approximately 14 of them.
Time: 8 minutes
8. Carefully remove the crankcase cover so to not damage the gasket, mine came off easily even though the bike has 8k miles on it.
Time: 5 minutes
9. Using a socket wrench remove the four bolts on the clutch plate lifter assembly…since this plate is under pressure from the springs, I loosened the bolts slowly and evenly a couple of turns at a time.
Time: 5 minutes
10. Replace the springs; hold the clutch plate lifter in place as you thread the 4 bolts. Starting in a criss-cross pattern begin tightening the bolts in half-turn racket increments to make sure the plate stays vertically level as you tighten the bolts. Although I should have used a torque wrench (the specs call for 9ft lbs), I was told by the local Honda mechanic to snug them first then go around and tighten each bolt until the clutch basket moves stop tightening and move to the next bolt.
Time: 15 minutes
11. Once the spring bolts are tightened, it's time to reassemble in reverse order. A couple of notes on reassembly.
First make sure your clutch lever is in the proper tensioned position before you slide the crankcase cover back on the bike. Mine needed a gentle push to seat the crankcase properly. Tighten the crankcase bolts all to snug, and then tighten criss-cross fashion to 17 lbf-ft (23 N-m). (See Torque Specs)
After each bolt is tightened do a double check by going around in a circle checking is bolt to be firmly tightened
12. Put in the oil drain plug and REFILL WITH OIL
Time: 10 minutes
13. Reinstall exhaust with new crush gaskets
Time: 45 minutes (damn DD Kickers!, stock pipes should be about 15 minutes tops)
14. Check your clutch lever free play, normal range should be ½ – ¾ free play on the lever.
15. Start your bike in neutral, let it warm up and then recheck your oil level.
I am extremely happy with the results – the clutch is better, firm on take-off without being jerky; the slippage between gear changes is completely gone. You’ll notice a difference in pulling the clutch lever in but it’s not a big difference just a little more effort is required.
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